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Ode to the Arctic

I give presentations from time to time, and am often asked what the difference is between the Arctic and Antarctic. On the surface, this is a simple question. The Arctic is essentially a body of water bordered by several different countries. The Antarctic is land surrounded by water. Polar bears in the north, penguins in the south, and never the two shall meet. But, for those who have traveled in both, there is much more to it than that.

Antarctica is immediately stunning; so much so that it's beauty can sometimes be overwhelming. Wildlife is out and waiting for you, and when you venture ashore, the penguins often walk right up to you. In contrast, the arctic has a much more subtle beauty that can take much longer to appreciate. Much of it has been glaciated, so instead of jagged peaks, you find mountains with softer lines and exposed layers of soil and rock. The arctic is full of wildlife, but it is spread out, difficult to find, and not always interested in you. The arctic also has land predators like the arctic fox and polar bear, which keep the other animals constantly on the lookout for anything unusual.

The Arctic has people and cultures that have existed for thousands of years. Like the wildlife that lives there, these people eek out a living from this harsh land. Over the years they have learned to thrive where most would perish. The Antarctic has scientists, and though most would call them people, they are not indigenous.

Both polar environments can be brutal and harsh to the flora, fauna, and even occasional visitors. Maybe it is the ever-present beauty of the Antarctic that distracts us from this, but not so in the Arctic. The starkness of the arctic can be a grim reminder of the raw nature that dominates the place. One look across the vast tundra fills you with awe that anything can survive in such a barren place. Yet when you get down on your knees and get a close up look at the land, you find plants, bushes and flowers thriving! Entire ecosystems right under your feet. Incredible! Visit a bird cliff teaming with thousands upon thousands of birds racing to raise their young and one asks how is this possible?

Perhaps it is because you have to work a bit harder to find wildlife in the Arctic that elevates the moment of excitement when you first spot something into pure rapture. How is it that people can spend hours on end, straining their eyes as they scour the pack ice to find a glimpse of a polar bear? These majestic bruins wander the shifting pack ice in search of seals to eat. Spotting one in the wild and spending a moment with one is a moving in a way that only those who have had the experience can truly appreciate. People have been brought to tears after visiting with their first polar bear.

Some who visit the arctic, never "get it". For others, learning to appreciate the vast expanses, teeming wildlife, and subtle beauty can be a powerful experience. For those that do 'get it", the arctic is a place they will return to throughout their lifetime. Once it's in your blood, you are hooked. The Call of the Arctic is a very powerful thing.

The Travel Experience - The Galapagos Islands

The Galapagos Islands straddle the equator 600 miles west of Ecuador. Discovered in 1535 by a Spanish Bishop and made famous by Darwin's visit in 1835 and subsequent publication of The Origin of Species, the islands comprise an archipelago of 19 extraordinary islands. Each island is unique and offers a stunning variety of wildlife and scenic vistas. Well acclimated to visitors, the wildlife is always out and waiting for you. Watch out for nesting birds as you hike along the many trails, and then swim with the acrobatic sea lions as they dance through the clear waters. Tortoises roam the highlands, while marine iguanas feed on the green algae near shore. The Galapagos Islands are an exceptional year round destination and one that everyone should visit in their lifetime.

The Galapagos are also wonderful family destination. What better classroom than the "Enchanted Isles", where young people can explore and learn in a safe and exciting environment. Some operators offer dedicated family departures while others offer discounts for people under 18.

It is possible to visit the Galapagos on your own, but traveling with a guide can enrich your experience immeasurably. Ferries link several of the islands together, but to visit most of the outer islands, you must be on a cruise ship of some sort. Keep in mind that, as in most places, you get what you pay for.

Some expeditions offer the option of camping on shore for a night in a specially designed tented camp. Others offer pre or post extensions visiting Macchu Pichu in Peru. This is a great combination and definitely something to consider if the timings work for you.

Some ideas to consider when choosing a Galapagos Cruise:

1. Boats. From Sail boats, to motor yachts, to luxury ships, the Galapagos has them all. They come in different sizes and price ranges, with large ships (100 passengers) offering all sorts of extra amenities, and smaller ones, a more intimate setting. While sailboats have a romantic charm to them, the cabins are usually a bit smaller, the deck space a bit more limited, and because of the distances, they usually only sail once or twice on a cruise. Motor yachts usually offer a more stable ride than sail boats, though in the Galapagos, this isn't usually a major issue. That said, there is nothing like the feel of the wind through your hair as you silently glide through the rich waters of these enchanted isles.

2. Itinerary. In an attempt to limit the number of visitors at each landing, every ship has a fixed itinerary, so you must find the best combination of ship and itinerary that works for you.

3. Guides. The quality of the guide is paramount to your experience, so it is important to ensure you have the best guides available. Each ship will have guides on board that will split the group into smaller groups. Even on larger ships, you will still be in a small group, thereby maintaining the intimacy of your adventure.

If all of this control seems a bit much, consider that by limiting the number of people that visit each landing,  each day, and ensuring that they have a trained guide with them when they visit, the islands and wildlife are still thriving today despite an increasing number of visitor each year. Visiting the Galapagos today, is not far from what it was twenty years ago, and that is due in large part to the local efforts to maintain the pristine environment.

The Travel Experience: Value in a Guide

Most adventure travel expeditions consist of small groups and come with a guide. Traveling with a guide is new for some people, and may not be their normal mode of travel, but a guide can add immeasurably to a trip, and so should be considered when planning your next adventure.

Guides can set the tone and pace of a trip based on the needs and wants of each group. A good guide should be able to read the group, discern what is important to each member of the group and adjust the itinerary accordingly. They should be well versed in natural history, local culture, local history, and any other subjects relevant to your trip. A guides knowledge of the destination and its surrounding should enable him/her to interpret what you are seeing and experiencing as you move through your itinerary. The guides should be able to anticipate wildlife movements and cultural events, and be flexible enough to take advantage of those surprise moments on every trip. Nothing is predictable once you step outside your door, but a good guide can turn an event, positive or negative, into something memorable. As an example, imagine you are traveling from one place to another and your van breaks down. A good guide should look at this as an opportunity for a quick hike while the driver fixes the van. Maybe there is a village nearby, or a river to explore. If it's pouring rain outside, maybe it time for a quick talk about water systems and how they affect the local people. The possibilities are limitless and all are an unexpected bonus to your trip.

A guide should be able to interpret wildlife and its movements as you explore the local flora and fauna. Visiting the thick jungle can be an experience in itself, but with a guide, you can learn about the different plants and animals that you would otherwise never see. Photographers should take advantage of a guides knowledge to help them position correctly for the perfect shot, or to just find wildlife to photograph. Many guides are also photographers and can provide unique perspectives on subjects that you otherwise would never know about.

Do not confuse guides with hosts or Escorts. Hosts and Escorts travel with a group and act as a logistical leader when there is no other guide. They also provide the connection to whatever group is hosting the trip. The participation levels vary with Hosts and Escorts. Some are experts in a particular field and can provide excellent insights on their particular topic, while others are just along for a free holiday. A guide should handle all logistics when traveling with the group. They usually work several days in advance and adjust plans based on the specifics of the group, customizing your tour as you go. A guide should assure a safe environment for you to explore your destination at your leisure.

Given the lack of comparisons, it can be hard to judge, but a great guide can have an immensely positive impact on your overall experience. Their input, guidance, experience, concern, and passion should be something you look for and take advantage of, on every adventure travel trip you take.

The Tourist's Prayer

Heavenly Father, look down on us your humble, obedient tourist servants who are doomed to travel this earth, taking photographs, sending post cards and buying souvenirs.  We beseech you, O lord, to see that our plane is not hijacked and our luggage is not lost and our overweight baggage goes unnoticed.  Give us this day divine guidance in our selection of hotels.  We pray that the telephones work, and that the operators speak our language.

Lead us to good, inexpensive restaurants where the wine is included in the price of the meal.  Give us the wisdom to tip correctly in currencies we do not understand.  Make the natives love us for what we are and not what we can contribute to their worldly goods.  Grant us the strength to visit the museums, cathedrals, palaces, and if we skip an historic monument to take a nap after lunch, have mercy on us for our flesh is weak.

Dear God, protect our wives from 'bargains' they don't need or can't afford.  Lead them not into temptation for they know not what they do.

Almighty Father, keep our husbands from looking at foreign women and comparing them to us.  Save them from making fools of themselves in night-clubs.  Above all, please do not forgive them their trespasses for they know exactly what they do.

And when our voyage is over, grant us the favor of finding someone who will look at our holiday snaps and listen to our stories, so our lives as tourists will not have been in vain.  Amen.

- Art Buchwald in Los Angeles Times

The Sneaky Copulator

I've studied Brown Bears (Ursus arctos) for many years. Polar bears are thought to have evolved from Brown Bears and still share many physiological similarities. One I'd like to address is the Darwinian concept that the largest and strongest males dominate all other suitors and mate with the female. This, in theory, will pass on the males large and strong genes to the next generation. While this is a great theory and in line with much of what we know to be true, I'd like to throw a 'spanner in the works'. Permit me to introduce, the Sneaky Copulator.

The Sneaky Copulator is usually a recently mature male, that may not be large or strong enough to compete with more mature males for the right to mate with a particular female. The Sneaky Copulator bides his time, and when the larger male is distracted, rushes in and copulates with the female. These trysts don't last long, but can be successful, and could play a factor in the evolution of the species.

I have seen this scenario play out numerous times in Brown Bears. When a male sets his eyes on a receptive female he begins a series of displays that serve to impress the female, and to show any other males around that they better think twice if they want to peruse the same female. There are several displays they utilize. The most common is where a large male stands with his back against a tree, raises his arms up as high as they can go, scratches the tree, and urinates all at the same time. This impressive display ensures other bears see how large he is. Another favorite is the 'Cowboy walk" which is where the male splays his legs out a bit and high stepps (picture a cowboy in a full mosey). This is sometimes accompanied by the sideways stance which is where two males will stand sideways to each other and puff up as much as they can to make themselves look as large as possible. Neither one looks at the other directly, which allows each bear to size the other up without direct confrontation. If both are equal in size and motivation, the bears will sometimes come to blows. Fights, while vicious, are not always deadly. The bears must be careful, for any injury that might inhibit their ability to find food, could be fatal.

On numerous occasions, I have seen two males so intent in their displays, that a Sneaky Copulator has walked right around the two displaying bears and taken the waiting female off to mate. This begs the question: When does the size of your brain factor into Darwin's equation?

While these smaller and smarter bears cannot fight off larger males, they do manage to successfully mate with females. Their success rate is probably not as high as a larger male, but perhaps their small contributions help to diversify and preserve the species.

Interestingly, I have also observed this same behavior in Elephant Seals. The dynamics of an Elephant seal colony are very different given the limited breeding space, fertility timing, mobility and social issues, but the concept is the same. In an Elephant seal colony, there is usually one dominant male, the Beach Master, that rules the beach, and essentially, all of the females on the beach belong to him. Other males challenge him by showing off their size and bellowing. Confrontations are common during the height of the season, and while the dominant male is off chasing away another seal, a sneaky copulator can sneak in an have his way with a receptive female. These couplings are usually short with fairly low success rates, but they are a factor.

Speed, agility, goal oriented, and excellent at problem solving; the Sneaky Copulator has it all.